Contemporary Art in Morocco:

Everything but Sex, Religion, and the Monarchy

The tour guide’s first warning struck me as strange: “Whatever you do,” he said, “don’t photograph any of the King’s guards or his police. They are definitely off limits.” I scanned his face looking for a faint smile, some sign that this was all a joke but his jaw was set and his eyes focused sternly on the group of tourists in front of him.

How could this be? After all, this was Morocco, the gateway to Africa, the country which had weathered the turmoil of the Arab spring by modest democratic concessions from their King…